Murasaki (紫): the forbidden color

The purple color is called murasaki (紫  ● むらさき) and its kanji is a combination of the radical 此 and the word “thread” 糸.

Today, purple decorations and patterns can be worn by everyone. But in the past Murasaki was known as the “forbidden color”. For a long time, ordinary people were forbidden to wear it.

A rare, pricey color

Murasaki requires a lot of effort to be extracted from the “purple gromwell plant” (shigusa): a plant difficult to grow and a color difficult to dye. Both the reasons made this color rare and pricey.

Symbolism

Purple color has positive attributes and is traditionally linked to:

  • Nobility (as in many other countries and cultures)
  • Strenght

紫 for Imperial Family and High-Level Officials

The twelve levels cap and rank system is introduced in Japan during the year 604 (Nara period). From this moment purple becomes a symbol of the ruling classes: common people are banished from wearing it.

紫 and Flowers

  • During the Heian period (794-1185): purple is associated with wisteria flowers.
  • During the Edo period (1603-1868): purple is associated with the mallow flowers (symbol of the ruling Tokugawa family).
ceremony of the Enthronement of His Majesty the Emperor at the Seiden

紫 and Samurai

Murasaki is the color of warriors. For a long time, the only flower that could be presented to Samurai was an Iris because its leaves reminded the shape of a katana… and its petals have purple shades.

紫 and Buddhism

Purple was always allowed, without any limitation, to Buddhist monks with a high level of virtue.

紫 and Noh Actors

Purple was also allowed for Noh performances when actors used purple and white in costumes of emperors and gods (only!). 

Ryuichi Sakamoto – Forbidden Colours

紫 and Edo Period: a Fashion Change

Even if during the Edo Period people were banned from wearing bright and vivid colors, something was going to change.

At the time, Kabuki actors were fashion influencers (as we’d say today) and when the famous actor Danjuro Ichikawa wore a Murasaki headband playing “the Flower of Edo” (“edo no hana”), purple became fashionable for commoners. How? People lined the inside/hidden part of their modest dresses with colored clothes… including purple.

The purple that became famous in the Edo era was brighter than the old and imperial one. Sometimes it is called “old purple” (kodai murasaki ” 古代紫 ● こだいむらさき….or “koki murasaki”) and indicates a deep purple, tinged with black.

nowadays purple kimono can be worn by everyone

Do you know any additional facts related to murasaki ● 紫?

Please, share with us in the comment section below!

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